If you step outside in Hakodate this January, you’ll notice two things immediately. First, the city looks like a Victorian painting dusted with an ambitious amount of powdered sugar. Second, your nose will instantly turn a shade of pink that matches a premium cut of Hokkaido tuna.
You might ask, “Why would any sane person leave a perfectly warm room to wander around a frozen harbor?” The answer is simple: Winter in Hakodate isn’t just a season; it’s a high-production light show where the cold is simply the price of admission.
1. The Goryokaku: A Giant Star Fallen to Earth
Our first stop is Goryokaku Park. During the day, it’s a historic star-shaped fort. But during the “Hoshi-no-Yume” (Dream of Stars) event, the entire moat is lined with thousands of lights, tracing the star shape in the snow.
Back in the 1860s, the samurai stationed here were busy defending the Republic of Ezo. I suspect they never imagined their tactical fortress would one day look like a giant glowing Christmas ornament from 100 meters above. For the best view, head up the Goryokaku Tower. It’s the only place where you can see a “star on the ground” while looking up at the stars in the sky. It is, quite literally, stellar.
2. The Slopes of Light: Mastering the “Penguin Shuffle”
Next, we head to the Motomachi district. If you’ve explored the area before, you know about the famous Hachiman-zaka Slope. In winter, the trees lining these streets are draped in fairy lights, creating a tunnel of gold that leads your eyes straight down to the glittering harbor.
It’s breathtakingly romantic—until you hit a patch of ice. Here is a pro-tip for your winter survival: Forget “walking with style.” To survive the slopes of Hakodate, you must adopt the “Penguin Shuffle.” Small steps, flat feet, and a humble center of gravity. It may not look majestic, but staying upright is the ultimate travel flex. The view of the lights reflecting off the icy pavement is worth the slight loss of dignity.
3. The Art of Thawing Out: The “Home-Away-From-Home” Strategy
After two hours of playing “Amateur Polar Explorer,” your toes will likely be protesting. This is why I always recommend staying in a condominium-style hotel when visiting during the freeze.
Unlike a cramped standard room where you just hide under the covers, a place with a private kitchen and a bit of space changes everything. You can head straight to your kitchen and boil a pot of fresh Hakodate milk with a dash of local honey, or perhaps warm up some local sake. If you’re feeling brave, step out onto your private balcony for exactly ten seconds to admire the crisp night air, then retreat back to the warmth of your living room. There is no greater luxury than watching the snow fall while you’re comfortably “thawing out” in a space that feels like your own apartment.
Summary: Embrace the Chill
Hakodate in winter is a city of contrasts: the biting wind and the glowing warmth; the frozen history and the modern lights. Yes, it’s cold. But without the frost, the lights wouldn’t sparkle half as bright, and that hot soak waiting for you at the end of the day wouldn’t feel nearly as heavenly.
So, pack your thickest wool socks, embrace your inner penguin, and come see the stars we’ve laid out on the ground for you.
HAKODATE Travel Tips 
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